How to Make a Circular Rag Rug

Circular Rag Rug

The above rug was done in cotton fabric, but a jersey fabric would do as well. Make sure you use the same type of fabric throughout the rug.

You might like to make use of old discarded clothing, or even old bed sheets for the rug.

You Will Need:

• Collection of pieces of toning fabric. For your own rag rug, choose a color theme to match your room, or use multi-colored scraps of material for a really colorful rug, ideal for a child’s nursery.
  
• Scissors
  
• Matching or toning sewing thread
  
• Needle
  

Cut the fabric you have chosen for your rug into strips about 4 inches wide.

Take three strips and secure them at one end by sewing them together firmly.

Start braiding them together, working carefully and turning in the raw edges as you go.

Alternatively, you could press a ¼ inch turning along both edges of each strip before starting to braid.

When the plait is completed, join three more strips to the ends of the first three and continue braiding.

When two braids are finished you can start to form your rug.

Coil the beginning of the braid around, into a flat ring, and secure it with firm stitches on the wrong side, as shown in Figure (a).

With the braid lying flat, carry on twisting and sewing, building up the braid into a flat circular rug as seen in the picture.

When all of your fist braided length has been used up, stitch three more strips of fabric to the ends of the strips already used and carry on braiding.

Continue this way, changing shades and colors of fabric as you choose. You can make the rug as large as you like, depending on your supply of rags.

Finish off the rug by turning in the ends of the last braid very carefully and stitching firmly into place as shown in Figure (b).

The advantage of these rugs - if you use washable rags or fabric, they can easily be put in the washing machine whenever necessary.

Thanks for stopping by and until next time,

Happy Crafting

How to Make a Fabric Wigwam

A wigwam can bring the great outdoors into the tiniest backyard. It is great for sparking off imaginative games.

What You Need:

• 5 feet strong green vinyl fabric - 54 inches wide
• 5 feet strong orange vinyl fabric – 54 inches wide
• Extra fabric strips or matching braid for ties
• 4 bamboo cnes, 6 feet long and ¼ inch in diameter
• Strong machine thread
• Adhesive
• Felt tip pin for marking
• Ruler

Planning the Fabric

Spread the green fabric out flat, wrong side up.

Measure and mark the center point of the 5 foot side and draw a line between them (A to B in Figure 1). Measure and mark the center point of the top edge (C in Figure 1).  You will find that you can mark well on plastic fabric with a felt tip pen.

Now copy the diagram in Figure 1 onto the fabric and number each piece before cutting. Cut from A to B, from D to C and from C to E.

Follow these same steps with the orange fabric.

Figure 1

Machining the Sections

Experiment with tension and stitch size on a scrap of your vinyl fabric to make sure that it does not pucker.

You will probably need a longer stitch than you would use machining ordinary cloth.

In the following steps and diagrams G stands for Green Fabric & O stands for Orange Fabric.

Take sections G5 and O2 and, with right sides together, seam as shown in the plan in Figure 2.

Use a ½ inch seam allowance.

Repeat on the opposite section, joining O5 to G2.

The next section to deal with is the bottom one in Figure 2.

Seam G4 to O6 and then O1 to G3.

Then join these two pieces together across the center as shown.

The top section in the plan will be the front of the wigwam where the opening is.

Join G6 to O3, making sure that the front opening edge is straight and join O4 to G1 in the same way.

You will now have all your sections machined and will be able to imagine how the finished wigwam will look.

The next step is to join the panels and here you must stitch the fabric with wrong sides together.

Machine panel 1 to panel 2, using a ¼ inch seam allowance and making sure the center seams are matching.

Join panel 2 to 3, then 3 to 4 and 4 to 5.

Turn the wigwam to the wrong side and stitch 1 inch wide French seams on all four joins (Figure 3).

Start at the bottom and leave 1½ inches unstitched at the top of each. These seams will be the casings for the bamboo poles.

Cut two equal lengths of braid or fabric to make ties to close the front entrance. Stitch these firmly, they will get a lot of wear, to either side of the opening at the center seam line.

Depending on the kind of fabric you have used, you may want to strengthen and neaten the unfinished opening edges of the wigwam with machine stitching or adhesive tape.

Pitching the Tent

Slot the bamboo canes carefully through the casings and stand the wigwam up. Tuck the pointed tops of the fabric neatly back inside the wigwam.

Take another length of the fabric used for the ties and wind firmly around the bamboo canes at the point where they emerge from the tent.

Fix and tidy ends with adhesive.

Sit back and relax knowing your kids are having a great time in this wonderful wigwam, made by your hands!

Thanks for stopping by and until next time,

Happy Crafting!

How to Make a Simple Wood Spoon Holder

If you find it annoying to have to rummage in a drawer every time you want a particular kitchen spoon, why not make life simpler with this attractive spoon rack.

You Will Need:

• 2 Pieces of Wood 12" Square (1 - ½" Thick and 1 - ¾" Thick
• 15" - 1" Wooden Dowel for the Center Spindle
• Gloss Varnish or Paint
• Strong Clear Wood Glue
• 1 - 1½" Wood Screw
• Panel Saw
• Electric Drill with 7/8" or 1" Flat Bit (or Hand Brace)
• Sandpaper
• Flat and Round Files
• Pencil - Ruler - Compass

Mark out the hexagons on the first two pieces of wood.  To do this, draw a 4¾" radius circle on the ½" wood for the top hexagon and a 5¾" radius circle on the ¾" wood for the base hexagon.

Keep the compass at the same radius as the circle and starting at a point anywhere around the circle, mark off five more points around the circumference to locate the hexagon points.  Draw in the six sides as shown in Figure 1.

Cut out the hexagons with the panel saw and thoroughly smooth all edges with the file and sandpaper.

Mark in the positions for the holes in the smaller hexagon as shown in Figure 2.  These should be large enough to take the handles of the utensils you want to put in the rack.

You can use an electric drill, with a 1" flat bit to drill the holes, or use a hand brace.  If you want the rack to hold a few knives as well, you could cut three slots as indicated in Figure 2.  Sand the sides of all holes and slots.

Fix the spindle to the base.  Drill a screw hole through the center of the base and in the end of the spindle.

Make sure the end of the spindle is absolutely flat, then screw it firmly to the base.  If you do have an electric drill, you can use the flat bit to make a recess for the base of the spindle to sit in.

Push the upper hexagon over the spindle and glue into position.

Instead of a dowel spindle, you can use the ends of an old broom handle, which sometimes have a decorative knob on top.  A shaped wooden strut or leg from a chair would make a good spindle too.

Paint or stain the rack or simply finish with a coat of clear gloss to varnish.

This completes how to make a wood spoon rack.

Until next time,

Happy Crafting!

How to Make a Basic Wood Sled

What child doesn't love sailing down a snowy hill in the frosty days of winter.  This is a great do it yourself project that will provide hours of fun in the snow.

The handles on the side are great for your child to have something to hold on to, while the rope makes it easy to pull the sled back up the hill for another run.

A little old fashioned, but suitable for those little ones that aren't too comfortable on those slippery plastic sleds.

Easy to do, fun to make and hours of entertainment are provided with this basic wood sled.

You Will Need:

• 5½' of ½" Plank - 4" wide
• 2' of ½" Plank - 1¾" wide
• 5' of ¾" Plank - 4¾" wide
• Twenty No. 8 wood screws
• Four Metal Brackets
• Rope
• ¾" Wide Metal Strip for Runners
• Polyurethane Varnish and Brush
• Crosscut Hand Saw - Coping Saw - Hand Drill and Bits
• Rasp (file) - Coarse and Fine Sandpaper - Ruler - Pencil

From the ¾" plank, cut two runners to the size indicated in Figure 1.

Negotiate the curved ends with a coping saw.  Use the coping saw to cut out the hand holes which should go under the seat rest positions that will not take a bracket. (see Figure 3).

From the ½" plank, cut four seat rests, each 4" x 16" long.

From the other ½" plank, cut a foot rest, 22" long x 1¾" wide.

In each end of this piece, drill a hole to take a rope, like shown in Fig 2.

File off any sharp or rough corners and thoroughly sand all surfaces to a smooth finish with the sandpaper.

Give each piece a number of coats of wood seal, polyurethane varnish for instance, just to give the wood some protection.

Secure each seat rest to the runners with four wood screws positions as shown in Figure 2.
Add the foot rest, also using four wood screws.

To strengthen the seat part, screw on the metal brackets to the undersides of the seat rests and inside of the runners as shown in Fig 3.

In this sled, four brackets were used, but you can sacrifice the hand holds and put brackets under each seat rest if you like.

To make the sled run more smoothly, nail ¾" wide strips of thin metal along the runners or wax the runners.

To complete, tie a rope through the holes in the foot rest.

You now have a great sled to provide hours of entertainment, all with a little time, effort and a few materials.

Until next time,

Happy Crafting!

How to Make a Simple Wood Skateboard

Kids love skateboards, and because they get used extensively, so it is better to use a hardwood for this project.  This is a great toy for a younger child, adding stability and ease of use during those early learning stages.

Easy to do, it’s a great way to work on your beginner woodworking skills while you make a great toy for your child to play with.  The design is simple, if a little old fashioned, but once you get the hang of it, you could improve the shape as you wish.

You Will Need:

• 1 Piece of Wood 2' x 6" x 1" Thick
• 1 Piece of Wood 1' x 2" x 1" Thick
• 4 Strong Wheels
• 6 - 1½" No. 8 Wood Screws
• Paint or Varnish and Brush
• Panel Saw - Coping Saw - Hand Drill and Bits - Woodworking Vice
• Pencil - Compass - Ruler

From the 6" x 1" wood cut a 20" length.  While holding the wood firmly in the woodworking vice, mark a curve in one end using pencil and compass and use a coping saw to cut the end roughly to shape.  Finish shaping the curve with the files, and sandpaper.

From the 2" x 1" wood, cut two lengths the width of your board.  These will be secured to the board to take the wheels.  Position them as shown in Figure 1, the rear support is flush with the end of the board.  Secure each of these pieces in position with three screws.

Figure 1

When you have the rear support firmly screwed to the board, around the back corners of the board and support together, by cutting with the coping saw, and finishing rounding with file and sandpaper.

Furniture castors are used for this skate board.  Metal or hard rubber ones like those shown in Figure 2 are best, or the small serving cart type wheels with a similar mounting.  The main thing is they should be hard wearing, turn easily and be easily attachable.

Drill a hole at either end of the two supports, just large enough to take the shaft of the castor.  To make sure you drill a hole just the right depth, measure the shaft length against the bit in the drill and wrap a piece of Scotch tape around the bit to mark it.  Wedge the castor shafts firmly in the holes like it’s shown in Figure 3.

Give all surfaces of the board a few coats of polyurethane varnish to give it a durable surface.  Or just prime and paint, wait for it to dry and you're ready to go.

And now you have a kewl skateboard to provide hours of fun for your child.

Until next time,

Happy Crafting!

How to Make a Wood Circus Toy Box

Playing circus is game all kids love to play. This lovely toy box doubles as a toy itself. Keep those stuffed animals in their ‘cage’ and show them off to the spectators! Hours of fun to be had for all!

You will need:

• Piece of 1/2" Plywood 3' x 2'
• 3' of 1" Square Wood
• Twenty-four 16" Lengths of 1/2" Dowel
• Four Wheels
• Four Metal Bolts to Fit Wheel Centers
• Two Screw-in Metal Hooks
• Strong Wood Glue
• Varnish, or Primer and Paint, and Brush
• Panel Saw - Coping Saw or Tenon Saw
• Drill (Electric or Hand Brace with 1/2" bit)
• Files - Sandpaper - Pencil - Ruler - Compass

Start by cutting the plywood in half to get two pieces 18" x 24".

Cut the 1" square wood in half to get two 18" lengths.

Use one piece of plywood for the base.

From the other piece, cut top rail in one piece 2" wide with curved corners.  Use a coping saw to do this, drilling a small hole to take the blade and angling the blade as necessary.  Round off the outer corners on both rail and base, and smooth all sharp edges.

Drill twenty-four 1/2" holes through the rail like shown in Figure 1.  Repeat in exactly the same positions in the base.

Sand the ends of the dowel smooth and flat, apply glue to each hole and assemble the rail, side rods and base.  File and sand off any rod ends standing out from the base or rail, and fill any depressions with plastic wood, let dry and sand to a smooth finish.

In each end of the 18" lengths, drill a hole a shade smaller than the bolt shafts.  Screw these lengths in position at front and back of the base underside like shown in Figure 2.

Prime and paint, or varnish, all surfaces and when dry.

Thread a wheel on to each bolt shaft and screw each bolt firmly into a hole, so the wheels are upright, but can turn freely as shown in Figure 3.

To complete, screw in two hooks to the base front to take a pull cord.

Until next time,

Happy Crafting!

How to Make a Basic Wood Toy Ship

If you live near the water, or spend a lot of time at the lake, a wood toy ship is a great toy for any girl or boy. Providing hours of fun and imaginative play, this ship is a winner!

You Will Need:

• Piece of Wood - 12" x 4¼" x 1½" Thick
• Piece of Wood - 12" x 4½" x 5/8" Thick
• Piece of Wood 2½" x 5" x 2½"
• 2¼" of 1" Dowel for Funnel
• Piece of ¼" Dowel for Mast
• Thin Dowel or Stick for Flag Mast
• Non-Toxic Paint or Polyurethane Gloss
• Wood Glue - Coping Saw - Small Plane - Files - Sandpaper
• Electric Drill with 1" & ¼" Flat Bit (or Hand Brace)
• Ruler - Pencil

On each of the large wood pieces draw a simple boat outline (see solid line in Figure 1) and use a coping saw to cut out the two shapes.  The wood grain should run the length of the boat.

On the thicker boat piece mark the inside boat outline (see broken line in Figure 1), cut this piece out, leaving you with the shape shown in Figure 2.  Do this by drilling a hole near the outline, threading the coping saw blade through it and then fixing the blade back in the saw frame.

Glue this piece on top of the solid boat shape.

When the two are firmly stuck together, start to refine the boat shape by making the bows sheer and reducing the height of the sides except where they should rise towards the bow.   The stern can be flattened underneath as in Figure 3 if you like.

Paint all surfaces of this hull or apply gloss.

To make the bridge structure saw the chunk of wood to shape similar to that in Figure 4. and smooth all surfaces.  Drill a 1" hole in the bridge to take the funnel and a ¼" hold for the mast (Figure 4).

Paint or gloss the bridge, funnel and mast and then assemble.  The mast and funnel can be just glued into their respective holes or screwed in through the bottom of the boat.  Glue bridge to deck, drill a hole for flag mast and assemble.

This completes the instructions for how to make a wood toy ship.

Until next time,

Happy Crafting!