How to Make a Simple Wood Spoon Holder

If you find it annoying to have to rummage in a drawer every time you want a particular kitchen spoon, why not make life simpler with this attractive spoon rack.

You Will Need:

• 2 Pieces of Wood 12" Square (1 - ½" Thick and 1 - ¾" Thick
• 15" - 1" Wooden Dowel for the Center Spindle
• Gloss Varnish or Paint
• Strong Clear Wood Glue
• 1 - 1½" Wood Screw
• Panel Saw
• Electric Drill with 7/8" or 1" Flat Bit (or Hand Brace)
• Sandpaper
• Flat and Round Files
• Pencil - Ruler - Compass

Mark out the hexagons on the first two pieces of wood.  To do this, draw a 4¾" radius circle on the ½" wood for the top hexagon and a 5¾" radius circle on the ¾" wood for the base hexagon.

Keep the compass at the same radius as the circle and starting at a point anywhere around the circle, mark off five more points around the circumference to locate the hexagon points.  Draw in the six sides as shown in Figure 1.

Cut out the hexagons with the panel saw and thoroughly smooth all edges with the file and sandpaper.

Mark in the positions for the holes in the smaller hexagon as shown in Figure 2.  These should be large enough to take the handles of the utensils you want to put in the rack.

You can use an electric drill, with a 1" flat bit to drill the holes, or use a hand brace.  If you want the rack to hold a few knives as well, you could cut three slots as indicated in Figure 2.  Sand the sides of all holes and slots.

Fix the spindle to the base.  Drill a screw hole through the center of the base and in the end of the spindle.

Make sure the end of the spindle is absolutely flat, then screw it firmly to the base.  If you do have an electric drill, you can use the flat bit to make a recess for the base of the spindle to sit in.

Push the upper hexagon over the spindle and glue into position.

Instead of a dowel spindle, you can use the ends of an old broom handle, which sometimes have a decorative knob on top.  A shaped wooden strut or leg from a chair would make a good spindle too.

Paint or stain the rack or simply finish with a coat of clear gloss to varnish.

This completes how to make a wood spoon rack.

Until next time,

Happy Crafting!

How to Make a Basic Wood Sled

What child doesn't love sailing down a snowy hill in the frosty days of winter.  This is a great do it yourself project that will provide hours of fun in the snow.

The handles on the side are great for your child to have something to hold on to, while the rope makes it easy to pull the sled back up the hill for another run.

A little old fashioned, but suitable for those little ones that aren't too comfortable on those slippery plastic sleds.

Easy to do, fun to make and hours of entertainment are provided with this basic wood sled.

You Will Need:

• 5½' of ½" Plank - 4" wide
• 2' of ½" Plank - 1¾" wide
• 5' of ¾" Plank - 4¾" wide
• Twenty No. 8 wood screws
• Four Metal Brackets
• Rope
• ¾" Wide Metal Strip for Runners
• Polyurethane Varnish and Brush
• Crosscut Hand Saw - Coping Saw - Hand Drill and Bits
• Rasp (file) - Coarse and Fine Sandpaper - Ruler - Pencil

From the ¾" plank, cut two runners to the size indicated in Figure 1.

Negotiate the curved ends with a coping saw.  Use the coping saw to cut out the hand holes which should go under the seat rest positions that will not take a bracket. (see Figure 3).

From the ½" plank, cut four seat rests, each 4" x 16" long.

From the other ½" plank, cut a foot rest, 22" long x 1¾" wide.

In each end of this piece, drill a hole to take a rope, like shown in Fig 2.

File off any sharp or rough corners and thoroughly sand all surfaces to a smooth finish with the sandpaper.

Give each piece a number of coats of wood seal, polyurethane varnish for instance, just to give the wood some protection.

Secure each seat rest to the runners with four wood screws positions as shown in Figure 2.
Add the foot rest, also using four wood screws.

To strengthen the seat part, screw on the metal brackets to the undersides of the seat rests and inside of the runners as shown in Fig 3.

In this sled, four brackets were used, but you can sacrifice the hand holds and put brackets under each seat rest if you like.

To make the sled run more smoothly, nail ¾" wide strips of thin metal along the runners or wax the runners.

To complete, tie a rope through the holes in the foot rest.

You now have a great sled to provide hours of entertainment, all with a little time, effort and a few materials.

Until next time,

Happy Crafting!

How to Make a Simple Wood Skateboard

Kids love skateboards, and because they get used extensively, so it is better to use a hardwood for this project.  This is a great toy for a younger child, adding stability and ease of use during those early learning stages.

Easy to do, it’s a great way to work on your beginner woodworking skills while you make a great toy for your child to play with.  The design is simple, if a little old fashioned, but once you get the hang of it, you could improve the shape as you wish.

You Will Need:

• 1 Piece of Wood 2' x 6" x 1" Thick
• 1 Piece of Wood 1' x 2" x 1" Thick
• 4 Strong Wheels
• 6 - 1½" No. 8 Wood Screws
• Paint or Varnish and Brush
• Panel Saw - Coping Saw - Hand Drill and Bits - Woodworking Vice
• Pencil - Compass - Ruler

From the 6" x 1" wood cut a 20" length.  While holding the wood firmly in the woodworking vice, mark a curve in one end using pencil and compass and use a coping saw to cut the end roughly to shape.  Finish shaping the curve with the files, and sandpaper.

From the 2" x 1" wood, cut two lengths the width of your board.  These will be secured to the board to take the wheels.  Position them as shown in Figure 1, the rear support is flush with the end of the board.  Secure each of these pieces in position with three screws.

Figure 1

When you have the rear support firmly screwed to the board, around the back corners of the board and support together, by cutting with the coping saw, and finishing rounding with file and sandpaper.

Furniture castors are used for this skate board.  Metal or hard rubber ones like those shown in Figure 2 are best, or the small serving cart type wheels with a similar mounting.  The main thing is they should be hard wearing, turn easily and be easily attachable.

Drill a hole at either end of the two supports, just large enough to take the shaft of the castor.  To make sure you drill a hole just the right depth, measure the shaft length against the bit in the drill and wrap a piece of Scotch tape around the bit to mark it.  Wedge the castor shafts firmly in the holes like it’s shown in Figure 3.

Give all surfaces of the board a few coats of polyurethane varnish to give it a durable surface.  Or just prime and paint, wait for it to dry and you're ready to go.

And now you have a kewl skateboard to provide hours of fun for your child.

Until next time,

Happy Crafting!

How to Make a Wood Circus Toy Box

Playing circus is game all kids love to play. This lovely toy box doubles as a toy itself. Keep those stuffed animals in their ‘cage’ and show them off to the spectators! Hours of fun to be had for all!

You will need:

• Piece of 1/2" Plywood 3' x 2'
• 3' of 1" Square Wood
• Twenty-four 16" Lengths of 1/2" Dowel
• Four Wheels
• Four Metal Bolts to Fit Wheel Centers
• Two Screw-in Metal Hooks
• Strong Wood Glue
• Varnish, or Primer and Paint, and Brush
• Panel Saw - Coping Saw or Tenon Saw
• Drill (Electric or Hand Brace with 1/2" bit)
• Files - Sandpaper - Pencil - Ruler - Compass

Start by cutting the plywood in half to get two pieces 18" x 24".

Cut the 1" square wood in half to get two 18" lengths.

Use one piece of plywood for the base.

From the other piece, cut top rail in one piece 2" wide with curved corners.  Use a coping saw to do this, drilling a small hole to take the blade and angling the blade as necessary.  Round off the outer corners on both rail and base, and smooth all sharp edges.

Drill twenty-four 1/2" holes through the rail like shown in Figure 1.  Repeat in exactly the same positions in the base.

Sand the ends of the dowel smooth and flat, apply glue to each hole and assemble the rail, side rods and base.  File and sand off any rod ends standing out from the base or rail, and fill any depressions with plastic wood, let dry and sand to a smooth finish.

In each end of the 18" lengths, drill a hole a shade smaller than the bolt shafts.  Screw these lengths in position at front and back of the base underside like shown in Figure 2.

Prime and paint, or varnish, all surfaces and when dry.

Thread a wheel on to each bolt shaft and screw each bolt firmly into a hole, so the wheels are upright, but can turn freely as shown in Figure 3.

To complete, screw in two hooks to the base front to take a pull cord.

Until next time,

Happy Crafting!

How to Make a Basic Wood Toy Ship

If you live near the water, or spend a lot of time at the lake, a wood toy ship is a great toy for any girl or boy. Providing hours of fun and imaginative play, this ship is a winner!

You Will Need:

• Piece of Wood - 12" x 4¼" x 1½" Thick
• Piece of Wood - 12" x 4½" x 5/8" Thick
• Piece of Wood 2½" x 5" x 2½"
• 2¼" of 1" Dowel for Funnel
• Piece of ¼" Dowel for Mast
• Thin Dowel or Stick for Flag Mast
• Non-Toxic Paint or Polyurethane Gloss
• Wood Glue - Coping Saw - Small Plane - Files - Sandpaper
• Electric Drill with 1" & ¼" Flat Bit (or Hand Brace)
• Ruler - Pencil

On each of the large wood pieces draw a simple boat outline (see solid line in Figure 1) and use a coping saw to cut out the two shapes.  The wood grain should run the length of the boat.

On the thicker boat piece mark the inside boat outline (see broken line in Figure 1), cut this piece out, leaving you with the shape shown in Figure 2.  Do this by drilling a hole near the outline, threading the coping saw blade through it and then fixing the blade back in the saw frame.

Glue this piece on top of the solid boat shape.

When the two are firmly stuck together, start to refine the boat shape by making the bows sheer and reducing the height of the sides except where they should rise towards the bow.   The stern can be flattened underneath as in Figure 3 if you like.

Paint all surfaces of this hull or apply gloss.

To make the bridge structure saw the chunk of wood to shape similar to that in Figure 4. and smooth all surfaces.  Drill a 1" hole in the bridge to take the funnel and a ¼" hold for the mast (Figure 4).

Paint or gloss the bridge, funnel and mast and then assemble.  The mast and funnel can be just glued into their respective holes or screwed in through the bottom of the boat.  Glue bridge to deck, drill a hole for flag mast and assemble.

This completes the instructions for how to make a wood toy ship.

Until next time,

Happy Crafting!

How to Make a Wood Toy Train

Wood toys are easy to make with just a few basic tools.  With these easy instruction you can make a heirloom to pass down from child to child.

When making toys for children, please ensure;  all wood surfaces are smoothed to avoid splinters, all corners are slightly rounded, and all paints or stains used are non-toxic.

Try to make the toys as hard wearing as possible.  Use a strong adhesive. For a durable, wipe-clean finish use polyurethane paint or stain.

As you see, the train in the picture is quite small, if you wish to make one larger, then scale up all measurements.

You will Need:

• Wood 3" x 9" x ½" for Bases
• Wood 3½" x 1½" x 1½" for Cab and Tender
• Pieces of Wood for Loads and Funnels
• 1¼" Dowel for the Boiler
• 1" Dowel for Wheels
• 1/16" Dowel for Axles
• 6 Picture Hooks for Coupling Links
• Strong Clear Wood Glue
• Non-Toxic Wood Stain or Paint
• Tenon saw – Coping Saw – Hand Drill and 3/16" Bit
• Files – Sandpaper – Vice – Pencil – Compass – Ruler

Making the Bases

From the piece of ½" thick wood cut out an engine base 4½" x 1½", two wagon bases the same size and a tender base 2½" x 1½".

Mark the cutting lines in pencil first then use the tenon saw for cutting.  Hold the wood in a vice or clamp if necessary and to prevent it from marking the wood, line the jaws with a rag or piece of cardboard.

Smooth the edges of each piece first with a file and then with sandpaper, slightly rounding the corners.  Mark in pencil the positions for the axle holes about ¾" in from the ends of each base (see Figure 1A).

Figure 1a

Clamp each base piece firmly in the vice and drill the axle holes right through each base piece using a 3/16" bit.

Cut lengths of the 3/16" dowel long enough to pass right through the base with an extra ½" on either side to take the wheel.

Paint or stain the base, when dry push the axles through the holes.  They will probably be a tight fit at first, so sand the axles down until they turn smoothly in the holes.

From the 1" dowel cut as many wheels as you need, four for each unit, making each one about ½" thick.  Sand each wheel well around the edges, and through the middle drill a 3/16" hole.

Paint or stain the wheels.  Glue one to either end of each axle (see Figure 1b) taking care to apply the adhesive only to the surfaces to be joined.  Any excess adhesive spreading over areas to be stained may prevent the stain from taking properly.

Make the coupling links from little screw-in picture fittings, the type that are used to hold the cord at the back of a picture frame (see Figure 2A).

Figure 2A & 2B

To make the hook, just use pliers to open the link a little (see Figure 2B).  Drill a small hole at either end of each base (except at the front of the engine base) and screw in the links and hooks.

This video shows an alternative way to make the basis and some fancier wheels.

Completing Engine & Tender

Cut a 2¼" length from the 1¼" dowel for the boiler, sand and stain or paint it.

Figure 3

For the cab cut a piece of wood 1½" x 1½" by 2".  Produce the cab shape using the coping saw (Figure 3) to cut out a semicircle in one of the 12" sides (see Figure 4a).

The concave surface will probably be quite rough when you have finished sawing, so use a round or half-round file and sandpaper to bring it to a smooth finish.  Paint and stain.  If you do not have a coping saw you could cut a V with the tenon saw.

Glue the boiler and cab to the engine base and to each other.  Drill two holes in the top of the boiler to take the funnels.  Stain or paint the funnels, glue them in position and your engine is complete (see Figure 4b).

Figure 4A & 4B

For the tender use a 1½" cube or cut off a corner along one edge to produce the shape shown in Figure 5a (dotted lines).  Paint or stain, then stick to the tender base (see Figure 5b).

Completing the Wagons

All that is needed to complete each of these is a load.

Using a large piece of dowel on one and a heap of small wood chunks on the other serve well as a load.

You could use bundles of thin dowel or matchsticks, a pile of wooden beads or lengths of dowel cut up to represent oil drums etc.  The amount of detail you add is entirely up to you, just make sure you stick the load firmly in place with adhesive, then paint or stain.

Getting a child involved while learning yourself is a great way to build lasting hobby memories, as well as having a project to share with your child.  As you get better at making the blocks and putting them together, check out internet, as well as your local library to expand on your skills.

Thanks for stopping by and until next time,

Happy Crafting!



Express Train Set Wood Paint Kit

How to Make Wooden Spoon Dolls

Using ordinary cleaning items found around the house, these cute wood spoon dolls are easy to make.

They make awesome puppets and will provide hours of entertainment for those little munchkins on a rainy day!

For the Large Doll:

• 1 Large Wooden Spoon
• 1 Colored Dish Mop
• 2 Pipe Cleaners
• Length of Pink Wool
• 1 Thin, Square Sponge or Duster for dress
• Needle and Thread
• Tape and Clear Glue
• Black and Red Paint or Marker

Place the mop head into the concave side of the wooden spoon so the mop head fringes show just above and around the sides of the spoon to look like hair.

Once you have them in place, wind the tape around the two handles to make them stay firmly together.

Using a pipe cleaner, wind it once around the two handles just below the bowl of the spoon.

Bring the remainder of the pipe cleaner out at right angles to the handles to form an ‘arm’.

Do this again with the second pipe cleaner for the other arm.

Wind the pink wool around the pipe cleaners and wooden handles where they join so you give the two arms some 'body'.

Glue into place.

Fold the square of sponge or duster as shown below.

Wind it around the two handles, so the top of the sponge is just under the two ‘arms’ of the doll.

Fix into place with three or four stitches, sewing through the sponge and the wool wound round the handles.

Paint or draw a smiling face on the convex side of the wooden spoon

Allow the paint or marker to dry.

Arrange the ‘hair’ around the face.

For the Small Doll

• 1 Sponge Mop
• 1 Plain Duster
• 1 Hank Braided Wool
• 1 Spoon
• Pins
• Red and Blue Paint or Marker

Use a sponge head mop, sticking features on and using darning wool for hair.

Dress and cape are a plain and patterned duster, folded around and pinned into place.

Look around the house and see what other interesting things you can find to make these neat spoon dolls.

Thanks for stopping by and until Next Time,

Happy Crafting!

How to Make a Wood Spice Rack

Who doesn't love to use spices?  What better way to organize them, then to make yourself a simple spice rack to set on the counter in easy reach, or hang it on the wall.

You Will Need:

• 1 Piece 1/4" Plywood 15" x 8"
• 1 Piece 1/8" Plywood 15" x 6"
• 1 Strip 1/8" Lath 12½" x 3/8"
• 3/4" Panel or Molding Pins
• Tenon Saw
• File – Sandpaper – Hammer – Pencil – Ruler
• Sharp Penknife – Wood Glue
• Paint or Gloss
• Stick-on Motifs (optional)

On the 1/4" wood, mark in pencil; Top piece 13" x 2¼", and Base piece 12½" x 4½".

Cut out these two pieces and smooth edges.

Take the side pieces and shape one long edge as shown in Fig 1, using the knife, file and sandpaper.

Using the knife, file and sandpaper, shape the side pieces as shown in Figure 1.  Save time by clamping them together and shaping them at the same time, this will also help make them both exactly the same.

Use the wood glue to attach the side panels to the back panel and secure with 3 panel pins as shown in Figure 2.

Place this construction on end and glue one side piece in place (see Figure 3) using a pin to secure firmly.

When the glue is dry, repeat the operation at the other end.  The ¼ inch overlaps on base and side pieces.  Now glue the top piece to the sides and back, securing with two pins (see Figure 4).

All edges at back of rack should be flush.  To complete the rack glue on the thin strip of lath to the base front to make a small safety ledge (see Figure 5).

Finish with clear or colored gloss or polyurethane paint to match your kitchen decor.

If you like, decorate it as shown in the picture with stick-on motifs.

Secure to the wall with two screws through the back piece.

Now you have a beautiful wooden rack to put your spices on.

If you want, you can scale it up or down and make a nick-knack shelf.

Thanks for stopping by and until next time,

Happy Crafting!

How to Make a Wooden Matchstick Model

Basic Matchstick Fort

Making a matchstick model is just another form of building a puzzle, it's just in 3D and you create the pieces.

An absorbing, time consuming hobby with a rewarding result. It uses very little materials, matchsticks and cardboard are the basic requirements for this realistic fort to be made.

You Will Need:

• About 300 Wood Matchsticks
• Piece of Stiff Cardboard - 9" x 9"
• Piece of Thin Cardboard -  4" x 3½"
• Strips of Thin Cardboard ½" wide
• Wax Paper
• All-Purpose Glue (Elmer's is my favorite)
• Coarse Sandpaper - 9" x 9"
• Thin Paper for Door Hinges
• Small Tube Brown Oil Paint
• Turpentine
• Green Embossing Powder
• Brush
• Toy Soldiers (optional)
• Preparing the Base:

Stick the piece of sandpaper, rough side up, onto the stiff cardboard.  Rule a line ½" in, from edge all around, to mark line of outer palisade.

Spread out the wax paper and stick together three rows of upright matchsticks, matched in height, for three walls. Using the wax paper makes it so that the rows of matchsticks can be easily removed when the glue is dry.

About 1/3 way down each wall, stick a row of matches horizontally, and another row along the bottom to give the walls strength.

For the fourth wall, leave a gap the height of a match for the gateway, sticking three matches across the top as a lintel.

Stick walls on base, butting corners.

Make a matchstick door to fit hole in fourth wall and stick in place with strips of paper 3/4" x 1/16", so that the door will swing open and closed.

Making the Walk-around and the Roof

Cut 1/2" strips of thin cardboard to fit walls and form walk-around.

Stick along walls, resting on horizontal match reinforcement.

Stick rows of matches, ‘staggered’ as shown in the diagram, on the cardboard strip.

How to Place Matches on Walk-Around

Fold 4" x 3½" piece of cardboard along center of 3½" edge to form roof shape and stick rows of matches side by side.  Stick roof along edge of walk-around in one corner and support the free edge on one match as a pillar.

Finishing Model

Dilute oil paint with turpentine to a very thin mix and paint all the matchsticks with it, this gives an antique look to the wood.

Paint the cardboard base of walk-around.

Paint around outside of palisade and patches inside with glue and brush green embossing powder on the glue.

Allow to set, then shake off surplus.

Man the fort with soldiers, cowboys, Indians, or any other small figures you wish!

Most of all, have fun making it and enjoy your finished product.

Thanks for stopping by & until next time,

Happy Crafting